This Kingdom of Cambodia

From the moment we crossed the border we realized, very immediately and intensly, that we were indeed in a new and foreign country. From minute one we were hustled for money, for 'help' that later turned out to be not of goodwill but for an expensive 'tip.' No one likes to feel taken advantage of, especially if you go out of your way to be compassionate and kind to every person in your path. Charlie was, in this instance, a very calming presence in it all.

Cambodia is just emerging as a tourist destination in the last decade. In the seventies a repressive regime, known as the Khmer Rouge, dominated Cambodia with violent and unthinkable practices. Cambodia is the most heavily landmined country, leaving many thousands of men, women and children without limbs, or without thier lives. Even still the effect of these bombs are seen everywhere you walk. Between 1975 and 1979 hundreds of thousands of people were brutally executed for being educated, speaking a foriegn language, wearing glasses, begging for much needed food or, in some reported cases, just crying over lost loved ones. The brutality of this regime went beyond the actual acts of unthinkable violence, the people in this country starved by the thousands each day and an estimation made by the CIA reported 1.3 million died in those four years of disease and malnutrition on top of the estimated 50,000 to 100,000 that were executed during that time. The Communist Party of Vietnam finally drove out the Khmere Rouge, lead by Pol Pot, in 1979 and took control of the country for fourteen years. During this time aid was allowed into the country. The UN soon passed a settlement instigating free elections in Cambodia, and in May of 1993 the first democratic elections were held, with 90 percent of the Cambodian population voting.
This marked the beginning of Cambodia's move toward democracy. With a growing number of tourists coming to Cambodia every year, the locals clearly see this as an opportunity to make whatever money they can, however they can. Having read about all this awful history before coming into Cambodia didn't quite prepare me for the intensity of the hustle here.
Despite the initial chaos of the border town, Cambodia is still full of beautiful and friendly people. We are becoming more savvy everyday we travel, and are continuously seeking the balance between getting a good price and being fair. We are also trying to keep our compassion alive and find ways to be open to the strife that Cambodia has been through. We are guests in this country and are determined to be kind and discover the beauty it beholds. We feel safe and are keeping our wits about us. From what we hear this is the intermediary step before going to Vietnam, where they are a bit more abrupt and aggressive. We will keep you updated on what we learn.
For now we are staying in Sihanoukville, on the southern coast. Our 'budget accommodation' consists of a dorm room in a shack on the beach, a hip and happening backpacker hangout called 'Chiva Shack.' There are many other foreigners staying in this low-key beach scene and we have made many friends already. We plan on staying here a few days (it is only $2 a night for our room) and then take a boat to Bamboo Island off the coast and rent a low-key bungalow for a while. It is hot, but we are keeping our spirits up and continuing to enjoy our experiences.
Much Love.